WWD - Prune Goldschmidt RTW Fall 2023
Prune Goldschmidt inverted her usual travel-inspired collection by heading north. The French designer usually looks to sunny, southern regions for her cues; this season she ventured to Norway. She took her signature ideas and pulled them into transitional pieces for fall in forest shades of dark greens, wool capes with a subtle reindeer emblem and long-line plaid blazers.
The sporty skiwear of Norway was interpreted into patchwork pants in technical cotton of pastel shades of pink and peach with chunky white zippers with an emphasis on comfort. Exaggerated lace collars and ruffles on shirtsleeves were inspired by the lace embroidered curtains that hang in Norwegian homes, known for their spirit of ‘hygge.’
In a clever twist, Goldschmidt took a photo of the fish that are traditionally hung outside to dry, enlarged it and shaded it blue and green, resulting in a camo print used on a column gown with dramatic floor-length cape sleeves. That too was crafted with comfort in mind, giving at the waist and cut from viscose jersey.
Another key inspiration this season was the traditional English garden — another cool clime — with colorful rhododendron prints against black, with the pink and blush colors seeping over into tone-on-tone coordinates.
Goldschmidt tries to find the balance between traditional and modern while adding a hint of playfulness. Her signature Elizabethan collars remained a staple in the collection, with versatile jackets, high waisted jeans and trousers, and generously cut ‘boyfriend’ button-downs. Pockets were a must on everything from slim-cut suit pants to voluminous tiered skirts.
As she pulls inspirations from far-flung locales, the designer stays true to her clientele.
Written by Prune Goldschmidt