TRAVEL DIARY

Prune Goldschmidt is an inveterate traveler. Her approach has nothing to do with hopping from one destination to the next, merely skimming the surface. Above all, Prune travels so she can take the time to dream. She is equally entranced by what she might discover as whom she might meet... first and foremost, every time she travels it’s for herself, on her own terms. During recent travels to Morocco, Prune stopped in Essaouira, Marrakesh and Tangier to nurture the inspirations for her latest collection. She was particularly struck by the dazzling colors of the walls and doors in the Medina, light filtered
by stained glass, the contrasting graphics of the tiles in Moroccan palaces, the fragrance of exotic gardens, the scents in the spice markets, and the stripes on fabrics made by weavers in Tangiers. Photos, objects, and traditional clothing picked up here and there all inform what she calls a “Travel Diary,” a reference to an era when people took time to visit, discover, glean inspiration, sketch, and take photographs. But rather than reprise local craftsmanship and savoir-faire, Prune makes a point of revisiting the architecture of a caftan, turning it into a dress with princess cuts, complete with tassels, buttonhole braiding and passementerie inspired by Middle Eastern attire. References to the Maghreb appear as light, subtle accents on the brand’s now-iconic styles: a romantic collar is embroidered with camels, pleated trousers are inspired by harem pants, a safari shirt has
flounced sleeves, and a dromedary print or jacquard are inspired by Moorish pottery. The colors are fresh and vibrant. They clash and play around, settling into a harmony that beckons serenity, well-being and joy. To enhance their brilliance, they were named after precious stones: Moonstone (for white), Citrine (acid yellow), Onyx (black), Garnet (terracotta), Emerald (bold green),
Sapphire, Desert Rose...Exclusive prints reference Orientalist paintings by Matisse or Delacroix: graphics suggest “Lovers,” on Majorelle Blue and white cotton satin, or on Citrine yellow and white viscose Javanaise; and artisanal pottery, with contrasting dromedaries appearing on braided cotton or mesh-like openwork jacquard. Lastly, “Love Birds” reference the family china, appearing on ultra-light dresses and shirts in cotton
batiste. Bayadere stripes, a constant in Prune Goldschmidt’s collections from the outset, capture summer’s freshness and elegance in Marjorelle blue and natural white silk and dobby cotton. Moonstone or Emerald linen become a trench or a collarless safari shirt trimmed with tonal braiding and tassels, or a summery halter dress. Ultra-light poplin plays up softness on romantic, generously cut shirts. Cotton batiste shirts with “Love Bird” motifs feature statement sleeves and flounces. Sand-colored gabardine nods to a feminine version of (safari) uniforms. Onyx or Terracotta technical cotton faille becomes dresses, a shirt-jacket, or oversized trousers with a graphic, assertive allure. House classics in navy tropical wool revisit Middle Eastern references.
Desert Rose or Citrine crêpe de chine lends fluidity to blouses with “Couture” bows and ‘goddess dress’ styles.
Crêpe georgette and lurex diamond jacquard play on transparency and evening light. Fitted or fluid knits act like lace, in Monogram or Dromedary jacquard against a mesh ground for sweaters and daring dresses. Prune Goldschmidt’s allure is always elegant. With this Spring-Summer 2023 collection, it becomes more focused and confident. A decisive stature (oversized suit jacket,blouses with gathered sleeves), regal shirt collars, a defined and suspended waist, and extra-long and comfortable trousers refine and elongate the silhouette.
More than ever, particular attention is paid to details and research into exceptional finishings, a signature of the House’s Bordeaux-based atelier. This season, dresses are key — from the “sunbathing” dress to an evening dress for the eternally impertinent girl, as well as the shirtdress, the statement sleeve dress, the halter dress, and a regal long dress for special occasions. Naturally elegant, the Prune Goldschmidt collection is for women of character who relish travel, prize their freedom, and love finding their style in a sophisticated and whimsical wardrobe that allows for unexpected pairings and singular associations. But while altogether singular, this collection is - at the same time - completely universal.